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Using Grasses in the Garden

Using Grasses in the Garden

Laura Lovett

Native grasses mingle with checkerbloom and Douglas iris at the San Francisco Botanical Garden. Photo © Saxon Holt, Photobotanic

No native plant community in the wild exists without species of grasses as part of the habitat, but gardeners tend to be hesitant about including them in their home gardens. Mixed with perennials and shrubs, anchoring a hot dry site, or cascading down a slope, there is a grass species that will thrive in any sun or shade exposure.

Compared to annual grasses, perennial grasses stay green long into the summer on little or no water, making them less flammable than alien annuals. They are deep-rooted, stabilizing surface and sub-soils once established. They help to build soil organic matter, thereby increasing site fertility and sustained productivity. Perennial grasses mixed among flowering annuals and perennials or as a groundcover under shrubs are an excellent way to provide interest in the garden.

Grasses are generally categorized as cool season or warm season. These labels refer to the season when the grass will put on green growth. Cool season grasses are green in the spring and all through the fall when temperatures are around 65-75°F. They will require more water to stay green in a hot summer as it is their normal dormant period. However, they will thrive better if given a chance for some dormancy. Cool season grasses should be planted in the fall.

Warm season grasses will green up as summer temperatures go up but go dormant and turn brown in areas with a cold winter. These grasses should be planted in the spring. Warm season grasses flower and produce seed at the end of their summer growing season, while cool season species are productive in the spring and fall when temperatures are cooler and will flower late in each season.

Perennial grasses are slower than many annuals in establishing themselves. Regular weeding is necessary to keep competing annual grasses and weeds from shading out new seedlings until they get established. They need to be planted away from the immediate 2–5 foot perimeter of the house and maintained by mowing at an appropriate height. Both the height of mowing and the timing of it are key to encouraging the native perennial grasses and discouraging annual weedy grasses. See our article, Using Native Grasses in Landscaping, for full details on planting and mowing to achieve the look you want.

Many gardeners plant native grasses in drifts interspersed with common grassland flowering forbs such as Douglas iris, checkerbloom, monkeyflower, California fuchsia, goldenrod, yarrow, buckwheat, and blue-eyed grass. Deer don’t eat grasses, however, they may nibble on the perennials planted among them.

We will be offering these grass species at our Fall Plant Sale:

California Fescue, Festuca californica

A beautiful, medium-height, perennial bunchgrass with a host of uses almost anywhere in the garden. A good choice under native oaks with light shade, or in part shade. Accepts full sun near the coast. Easy and fast to grow. Drought tolerant once established but looks better with some summer water. Gets 2 x 2 feet, with seed heads to 4 feet.

Elk Blue Rush, Juncus patens ‘Elk Blue’

Elk Blue Rush features exceptionally blue foliage and a vigorous spreading habit, forming upright clumps of narrow, grey-blue stems. This selection is shorter than the typical grey rush, only reaching about 18 inches tall. It likes moist soils, making it a great solution for bioswales or rain gardens.

Deer Grass, Muhlenbergia rigens

Deer grass is a 3 foot evergreen perennial with 2 foot plumes rising above the plant. It is fast growing, normally reaching mature size in a season or two. Excellent as a specimen plant or to add size and drama to a perennial bed. Plant in full sun to light shade.

Stipa hymenoides – Indian ricegrass

Indian Rice Grass, Stipa hymenoides

A perfect plant for dryland gardens or drought-restricted areas. It typically grows up to 2 feet tall and a foot wide. The branching, wavy flower stalk and seed pods are so unique that it’s often used in flower arrangements. It can live in sand to clay but does particularly well in sandy soils and is an excellent choice for soil stabilization.

Lagunita Wild Rye, Leymus triticoides ‘Lagunita’

A perennial, cool season, evergreen clone of our native creeping wild rye. ‘Lagunita’ will stay at 10-16 inches. It is great for erosion control and can also be used effectively as a base groundcover grass for meadow installations and orchard understory. Sun or part shade.

Festuca idahoensis ‘Siskiyou Blue’

Siskiyou Blue Fescue, Festuca idahoensis ‘Siskiyou Blue’

This clump-forming hybrid of the native Idaho Fescue is notable for its beautiful spruce-blue foliage. The thin leaves are much longer than the more familiar Festuca glauca, giving ‘Siskiyou Blue’ a softer, more graceful look. Takes sun or light shade. Good with moderate to occasional irrigation.

Anthoxanthum occidentale – vanilla grass, CA sweet grass

Vanilla Grass, Hierochloe occidentalis (Anthoxanthum occidentale)

An excellent choice for woodland gardens as it is compatible with many redwood forest plants. Prefers soil high in organic matter. Best with some summer water but is drought tolerant near the coast. The leaves offer a sweet vanilla fragrance when dried. Gets 1–2 feet.

Sage and Buckwheat: Pollinator Powerhouses

Sage and Buckwheat: Pollinator Powerhouses

Laura Lovett

Bumble-Bee-Buckwheat

bumble bee on buckwheat blossom

If you are establishing a native plant garden and find you lose plants because the conditions are too hot and dry, consider planting the tough-as-nails dynamic duo—buckwheat and sage (Eriogonum and Salvia). They come in multiple varieties and forms that range from ground hugging to 6 feet tall and will be right at home on a rocky slope with poor soil and full sun. They need water to get established, after which they should require little to no water, or an occasional deep watering if temperatures remain high.

Few natives are as excellent a source of nectar for bees and butterflies as buckwheat. Growing in tough, dry conditions throughout Marin, buckwheats thrive in exposed locations on slim soils. These terrific plants are important food sources for pollinators, especially in the late summer months when other flowering plants have retreated to dormancy. Buckwheats reliably attract a range of pollinators including native bees, wasps, flies, butterflies, and birds. They are also important host plants for numerous Metalmark and Blue Butterflies as well as Gray and Coastal Green Hairstreaks.

Our native sages are versatile plants that are essential in any habitat garden. Prized for their adaptability and resilience, there are numerous native varieties that grow well here. The drought tolerance of sage plants stems from a number of unique adaptations, including a deep root system and silvery gray foliage that deer seldom browse.

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Cleveland Sage (Salvia clevelandii) late summer

The Sage family of plants is a must when it comes to supporting pollinators. Their long blooming period ensures that there is food for bees and butterflies late into the summer. They are a favorite of hummingbirds, which can often be seen collecting nectar from the long tubular flowers. Seedheads can be left on the plants all winter, providing food for birds. Or sheer the spent blooms in winter to remove the flowerheads and shape it lightly; this pruning will produce a new flush of growth in spring.

Neither buckwheat nor sage should be fertilized regularly, although they can benefit from a very light dressing of mulch or all-green compost (no manure) in spring.

The Marin Chapter offers a wide variety of both buckwheats and sages at our fall native plant sales. Of this collection, there is certainly one or more that will be the perfect addition to your home garden.

Buckwheats

Coast Buckwheat, Eriogonum latifolium

Sub-shrub. Coast Buckwheat has oval, woolly, white-green leaves with pretty pink and white flowers in round clusters at the ends of long stems. Great on rocky slopes, in crevices, or atop sunny rock walls. An essential for a coastal garden as it supports many pollinators and is an important food source for butterflies and moths.

Eriogonum nudum var. nudum

Naked Buckwheat, Eriogonum nudum

Sub-shrub. Produces flower pom-poms ranging in color from white to pink set on slender stems above low mounds of grey-green leaves. Give it full sun to very light shade in soil with decent drainage. It does well in hot dry places, among gravel or in a rock garden.

Eriogonum grande var. rubescens

Red Buckwheat, Eriogonum grande var. rubescens

Sub-shrub. A small, colorful, and highly ornamental buckwheat. Rosy-pink flower clusters rise above low-growing foliage on stems up to a foot tall, blooming from spring to fall. The flowers attract a variety of pollinators, especially butterflies. It can get 2 to 3 feet wide in ideal conditions.

Eriogonum fasciculatum ‘Warriner Lytle’

‘Warriner Lytle’ buckwheat, Eriogonum fasciculatum ‘Warriner Lytle’

Shrub. A spreading form of the native California Buckwheat, Warriner Lytle stays under 2 feet but spreads 4 to 5 feet wide and is topped by white pompoms in summer that age to rusty brown. With its dense foliage coverage and deep roots, this low form is good for erosion control, slope stabilization, suppressing weed germination, and dry hot slopes.

Eriogonum umbellatum ‘Kannah Creek’

Sulphur Buckwheat, Eriogonum umbellatum ‘Kannah Creek’

Perennial. Rosettes of silver-green foliage form a mound 1 foot high and 3 feet wide. Pompom flowers in bright yellow appear above the foliage in summer and age to a rust color. Tolerates a wide variety of soils and is happy growing among rocks. ‘Kannah Creek’ is more robust than the straight species.

 

Salvias

Black Sage, Salvia mellifera

Shrub. Native to Marin, a mature Black Sage will slowly attain a nice upright shape with a height of about 4 to 5 feet but can reach 6 feet by 8 feet in width, depending on conditions. The small white or pale blue flowers, while not as showy as other salvias, are copious and produce enough nectar to be irresistible to bees. Prefers sun but tolerates light shade. Can get by on no summer water.

‘Pozo Blue’ Cleveland Sage, Salvia clevelandii ‘Pozo Blue’

Shrub. An easy-to-grow compact shrub to 4 to 5 feet. tall and wide with dark green, aromatic foliage. A hybrid between Salvia clevelandi  and Salvia leucophylla that does better in garden cultivation than straight Cleveland Sage. Deep violet-blue flowers borne in distinctive whorls on 2-foot-long spikes are hummingbird magnets. Gorgeous in bloom. May be semi-deciduous in drought. Excellent choice for pollinator gardens, bank stabilization and hummingbird gardens.

‘Celestial Blue’ Cleveland Hybrid Sage, Salvia ‘Celestial Blue’

‘Celestial Blue’ Cleveland Hybrid Sage, Salvia ‘Celestial Blue’

Shrub. Thought to be a hybrid between Salvia clevelandii and Salvia pachyphylla, this gorgeous salvia has widely spaced whorls in eye-catching red-violet with striking blue tubular flowers. Flowers are abundant in spring and late fall. It averages 3 to 5 feet in size and mounds as it grows. Plant in full sun with good drainage and occasional water.

Hummingbird Sage, Salvia spathacea

Perennial. An attractive sage notable for its 2-foot red flowering spikes and pleasant fragrance. It spreads by rhizomes and over time can cover a large area, making it a popular groundcover plant. It grows well in shade and part-shade. In its natural environment, it’s often found under trees and large shrubs. Hummingbird Sage can survive without summer irrigation once established, but by mid-summer it may look pretty dead. Some supplemental water or fall rains will green it up again.

‘Mrs. Beard’ Sage, Salvia ‘Mrs. Beard’

‘Mrs. Beard’ Sage, Salvia ‘Mrs. Beard’

Perennial. Durable and disease resistant, the foliage on this Sonoma Sage cultivar stays about a foot high but spreads 4 to 6 feet wide. A profusion of 8-inch periwinkle blue spikes of purple blooms appear in spring through early summer. Great for covering a slope. Prefers sun in coastal sites, but part shade is necessary in hot inland locations.

Rose Sage, Salvia pachyphylla

Rose Sage, Salvia pachyphylla

Shrub. A beautiful silvery shrub of intensely aromatic foliage that grows 18 to 30 inches tall and wide. Spikes of densely packed violet whorls support elongated tubular blue flowers, blooming over a long period in summer. Native to the desert, it is at home in hot and dry conditions. Requires full sun with excellent drainage. A magnet for pollinators. Dry conditions are a must for over wintering.

Sonoma Sage ‘Dara’s Choice’, Salvia sonomensis ‘Dara’s Choice’

Perennial; evergreen. A hybrid of Sonoma Sage and Black Sage, ‘Dara’s Choice’ is a compact spreading groundcover, fast-growing and adaptable to different soils. It will reach 1 to 2 feet in height and 3 to 6 feet in width. Semi-deciduous in summer. It prefers sun in coastal sites, and part sun or light afternoon shade in inland sites.

White Sage, Salvia apiana

Shrub. This aromatic shrub has spectacular white leaves and produces 6-foot-tall flower spikes with large white flowers that bees love. It is very drought tolerant, grows in full sun or part shade, and is not too fussy about soil type. Very easy to care for; extremely low to low water needed. One of our most important native plants and a great food source for many native insects.

Butterfly Host Plants

Butterfly Host Plants

Laura Lovett

What could be more delightful than butterflies flitting around your garden? If you’d like to increase their numbers, there are some simple things you can do. Butterflies go through four life stages: the egg, larva (caterpillar), pupa (or chrysalis), and the adult stage—the butterfly. At each stage, specific needs must be met for the insect to progress toward the final adult form and begin the cycle anew. By selecting the right variety of native flowers that flourish in your microclimate, you can contribute significantly to supporting their populations.

This requires a bit of planning and use of native plants that cater specifically to their needs as pollinators and as caretakers of their young. All female moths and butterflies lay their eggs on what are known as host plants, which provide for their caterpillars needs once hatched. The plants provide caterpillars with food, shelter, and protection, and can be anything from a small weed to a tall oak tree. A number of butterfly species may use only one specific host plant. Well known specialists include the Monarch Butterfly (milkweed species), the Mission Blue Butterfly (lupine species) and the Pipevine Swallowtail (California Pipevine). Others are generalists and will gravitate to any number of diverse plants. In particular, shrubs and trees like willow, oak and plum support dozens of butterfly species.

Asclepias fascicularis

A great place to start your search for host plants is on Calscape. Each plant entry lists which butterflies and moths are likely to lay their eggs on that plant, so you can pick out a specific plant for a specific butterfly you would like to attract, or you can plant a wide variety of species that will provide sustenance to many. Butterflies love warmth and sunlight, so ensure their part of the garden has plenty of sun exposure throughout the day. Grouping flowers together makes them more visible and accessible to the visiting insects. Gardeners can also accommodate butterflies by providing large rocks in the sun for wing warming, a small water feature (or better yet, a permanent mud puddle), and an environment free of pesticides and herbicides.

Once planted, keep an eye out for signs of caterpillars on your host plants and remember—these plants are meant to be eaten! Because caterpillars feed exclusively on their host plants, they won’t harm the rest of your landscape. Don’t reach for pesticides when you see leaf damage; take a moment to identify what’s causing it. With luck, it will be hungry caterpillars fattening up before they transform into butterflies!

Plants that support a diverse array of butterflies are offered in the plant sales of the Marin Chapter of the California Native Plant Society. Support the Chapter by ordering some plants from our native plant sales in the spring or fall.

Trees and Shrubs

Low Form Coffeeberry, Frangula californica ‘Mounding Manchester’, host for Green, Gray or Common Hairstreak, Pale Swallowtail

Leather Oak, Quercus durata, host for California Sister, Mournful Duskywing, California Hairstreak

Twinberry, Lonicera involucrata, host for Chalcedon and Variable Checkerspots

Lupinus albifrons

Silver Bush Lupine, Lupinus albifrons, host for Acmon Blue, Silvery Blue, Arrowhead Blue, Sulphur Butterflies

Coastal Bush Lupine/blue form, Lupinus arboreus/blue form, host for Painted Lady, West Coast Lady, Silvery Blue, Acmon Blue, Sulphur Butterflies

Catalina Cherry, Prunus ilicifolia ssp. lyonii, host for Lorquin’s Admiral, Pale and Western Tiger Swallowtail

Ribes sanguineum

White and Pink-flowered Currants, Ribes sanguineum var glutinosum, host for Tailed Copper Butterfly

Snowberry, Symphoricarpos albus, host for Variable and Snowberry Checkerspot

Acer circinatum

Vine Maple, Acer circinatum, host for Mourning Cloak, Western Tiger Swallowtail

Wild lilacCeanothus species, host for Pale Swallowtail, California Tortoiseshell, Hedgerow Hairstreak, Brown Elfin, Echo Blue and Spring Azure Butterflies

Perennials

California Pipevine, Aristolochia californica, host for Western Pipevine Swallowtail

Checkerbloom, Sidalcea malviflora, host for Painted Lady, West Coast Lady, Common Checkered Skipper

Coast Buckwheat, Eriogonum latifolium, host for numerous Metalmark and Blue Butterflies, Gray and Coastal Green Hairstreak

Eriogonum nudum var. nudum

Naked Buckwheat, Eriogonum nudum, host for Acmon Blue, Blue and Gorgon Coppers, Mormon Metalmark Butterflies

Sulphur Buckwheat, Eriogonum umbellatum, host for numerous Metalmark and Blue Butterflies, Gray Hairstreak

Foothill Penstemon, Penstemon heterophyllus, host for Common Buckeye, Variable Checkerspot

Narrow-leaf Milkweed, Asclepias fascicularis, host for Monarch Butterfly

Sticky Monkeyflower, Diplacus aurantiacus, host for Common Buckeye, Chalcedon Checkerspot

Mugwort, Artemisia douglasiana, host for American and Virginia Lady Butterflies

Lathyrus vestitus

Pacific Pea Vine, Lathyrus vestitus, host for Acmon and Silvery Blues, Grey and Common Hairstreak, Orange Sulfur Butterflies

Wild Honeysuckle, Lonicera hispidula, host for Chalcedon and Variable Checkerspots

Cobb Mountain Lupine, Lupinus sericatus, host for Painted Lady, Sulphur Butterflies, Acmon Blue, Silvery Blue, Gray Hairstreak

Tours of Native Plant Gardens in San Anselmo, May 24, 2025

Tours of Native Plant Gardens in San Anselmo, May 24, 2025

Native plant enthusiasts toured two San Anselmo gardens on Saturday, May 24.  Less than one mile apart, the gardens were quite different in location, plants, and topography.  The tour was organized by subscribers to the native plant email group of Marin CNPS.

Harold’s Garden

Harold Hirsch started his garden 20 years ago.  It is on a steep hill, much of it in the understory of mature coast live oak trees. “My goal has been restoration of my yard with mostly local plants,” he says.  Harold relies on rainwater to irrigate his garden.  His main task is to  pull out weeds, but plants are otherwise largely left to their own.  The westward facing front yard gets afternoon sun, and supports toyon, buckeye, California fescue, and sticky monkeyflower.  Ribbon clarkia has insinuated itself in the cracks between paving stones in both front and backyard.  The backyard is a steep hill with shade-loving plants like polypody ferns, manroot, hummingbird sage, and snowberry.

Harold says, “Every year and every season are different.  My pink honeysuckle on my arbor is putting on one of the best shows in years.” In recent years his biggest challenge was to cull several treasured plants that were too close to his house, in response to fire safety concerns.

San Anselmo Garden Tours 1 Paul Barnett

San Anselmo Garden Tours 2 Paul Barnett

Oriana’s Garden

The garden of Oriana Bleecher was quite different.  It is on a flat double lot with more sun.  She waters with drip irrigation.  She began converting it to native plants just 3 years ago, planting over sheet-mulched lawns and gradually removing the plants that came with the house.  Oriana says, “Some areas I am happy with; some are clearly in progress; some I still have no clear vision for.”

The front yard was in riotous full bloom with California phacelia, clarkia, Hooker’s evening primrose, and a few non-natives that she has found difficult to completely suppress.    She has planted a variety of perennials on the rest of the lot, including blue elderberry, coffeeberry, beaked hazelnut, pink flowering current, mock orange, yerba buena, and red stemmed (red osier) dogwood.  Mature coast live oaks and magnolias overstory some parts of the yard.

She asked for suggestions on what to plant to replace a hedge of privets in a shady area that borders her front yard.  Attendees suggested coffee berry, silk tassel plant, or mountain mahogany. Oriana has helped with restoration of natives on her parents’ farm in the Central Valley.  “Here I have quite a bit more control,” she says, but acknowledges the effects of a flock of laying hens, two children, and a partner who has planted fruit trees.

Tours of native plant gardens in Marin are ongoing.  To enroll in the Marin native gardening email group, send an email message to marinnativegardening+subscribe@groups.io.

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